Installing an Aftermarket or Stock Timing Signal Rotor / Ignition Adancer Rotor

   This page started as a small how-to by Trinc (Tim) and has been modified/expanded by The CyberPoet to show more information and images. Enjoy!
 

Place Bike on Centerstand or other support

   You're going to be applying some serious force to the parts under this cover if they've never been removed before -- place the bike on the centerstand or a race stand.
 
Standard Disclaimer: Although these instructions are generally complete and do include warnings of obvious pitfalls you might encounter, we are not responsible for any work you choose to undertake on your own, any issues, injuries, mechanical failures, breakage or other issues which might in any way connote liability on our part. This page is for informational purposes only and by reading onward, you agree to hold anyone involved in writing, posting, hosting or otherwise being involved in the creation, sharing and delivery of this information to you or persons you may pass the information onto absolutely free of any liability for any actions which you undertake. In other words, if you do something stupid and hurt yourself by trying to follow these instructions without adequate protection, equipment or know-how, you are solely responsible for all consequences. Ditto if you fail to follow the instructions. Sad state of affairs that I have to mention this at all.

Locate the Signal Generator Cover
 

   The Facotry Pro signal advancer rotor (left) and the OEM Suzuki (Denso) signal rotor (right). The timing signals on the FactoryPro are correct and at the same location as the OEM rotor's, which can be useful for timing-sensitive repairs (cam chain installations, valve adjustments, etc.). The major difference between these two rotors is the offset for the placement indent on the rear side -- the FactoryPro version is five degrees further than the OEM one. For a bike with 4 degrees of advance from the factory, this will moving the spark timing signals to 9 degrees before top dead center. For bikes in other markets that had 9+ degrees of advance from the factory (their pick-up signal magnets are offset compared to US models), installing a five degree advancer may advancer your timing to a detrimental (bad) amount.
 

Comparing Signal Rotors
 

   The cover should be on the right side of the bike (right-and-left are always from the seated rider's position), as the forward-most cover. Remove five allen-head bolts retaining the cover, and then carefully pry the cover away if it does not fall away on it's own.
 
Caution: There is a paper/fiber gasket under this cover that you will want to reuse; careful in removing the cover to not tear the gasket.
 

Time to Remove the Signal Rotor already in Place
 

   This is the signal rotor in place atop it's mounting point. You're going to need a 19mm wrench (box wrench is preferable), and a 6mm allen key socket (or other way of applying a lot of pressure to the allen key).
 
Caution: If the allen-head bolt has never been removed/replaced previously, it's threads will be covered with loctite. In order to break the loctite bond, you will need to place a lot of force in a very fast "snapping" motion onto the allen-head bolt to start it out (this is why I recommend using an allen-key socket & and ratchet instead of just using a standard allen key). If you do not do that, but instead just increase pressure on the bolt, the head of the bolt will tear itself up.
 
If you do not have a 19mm wrench nor an adjustable wrench that will open to that size, I've seen users jury-rig a solution by placing the bike in a high gear and putting a 2x4 across the rear swingarm (through the spokes of the wheel itself to stop the wheel from rotating). In such cases, slippage will be limited to slippage by the clutch... naturally, I can't recommend this method as being "safe" in any sense -- if you have the tools (or can get them), use the tools!
 

Installation is the Reverse of Removal
 

   The rear of the advancer has a cut-out to make alignment really simple. Make sure that the replacement rotor/advancer you are installing is 'keyed' into the shaft under it correctly (so that the slot engages), then bolt the allen-key back into place while holding the rotor in place with the 19mm wrench.
 
After reinstallation, you can rotate the entire rotor forwards 360 degrees to ensure that none of the protrusions will touch the signal rotor pick-up magnet as the unit rotates (if they do, you didn't install it correctly; start over).
 
Now all that's left is making sure the gasket is still good (or replacing it) and reinstalling the signal generator cover we took off at the outset.