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UPGRADE:
SUSPENSION
Reset and Tweak for improved handling.
COST: $0.00
TIME: 3 minutes on successive days.
BENEFIT: Improved Handling, sharper turn-in, more confidence.
CONS: Less than desirable handling while figuring out the perfect settings.
DETAILS:
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The suspension on the GSX600F Katana is set for
mass usage in the way that is most safe for the majority of beginning riders, but if you
tweak it, you will find that the handling will measurably improve. Recommend
changing one setting one notch (at the forks, always match settings between the
two forks click-for-click), drive for a day, then deciding whether to keep or reset the change to stock.
CAUTION: Whenever
you change tire brands, tire models, or tire sizes (either
or both tires), reset the suspension to the factory
settings (see the owner's manual) and start again. What
worked wonderfully with a set of Dunlop 207's is almost
guaranteedly not be the best setting for a set of Metzeler
ME Z6's.
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UPGRADE:
REFLECTIVE EMERGENCY TAPE
Install for Visibility to others, reduced accident rates by up to 35%.
COST: $5.00 - $16.00
TIME: 30 minutes to an hour.
BENEFIT: Reduces odds of being sideswiped or rammed by almost 35%.
CONS: If not installed straight, will look tacky. If surface not prepped well, will peel.
DETAILS:
The Katana has great headlights and a good tail light, but from the sides and at an angle, it's visibility
could be greatly improved. Locate Red and white reflective tape (like used on ambulances) at
the local auto parts store in 16 to 20" lengths. Measure the lower front fork, then cut matching red
pieces for the left and right forks, with the lower edge cut at a 45 degree angle. Clean all road
grime and oils off the fork (windex and/or lighter fluid), then when dry, install red reflective tape on the lower
front fork, so that the front edge of the reflector is parallel to the bike's length, and the back
edge of the reflector tape faces the side of the bike.
Cut another two small rectangular pieces, one red, one white and after prepping surface, install on the passenger foot-peg support
triangle (place the red one on the higher support triangle arm).
Cut a red and white box and install centered under the license plate mounting, to add reflectivity
to the rear.
Optional: Add another strip of red to each of the rear swing arms, but ensure that
you do not cover any of the area the chain adjustor permits the wheel mounting bolts to
move through.
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UPGRADE:
CASTROL GPS SYNTHETIC OIL, MOBIL 1 Racing (formerly called MX4T) SYTHETIC OIL, ETC.
Switch oil and filter for longer engine life, higher reliability.
COST: $48.20 - $55.50
(5 Liters Castrol GPS Oil, plus OEM Suzuki Oil Filter)
TIME: 30 minutes, 90 minutes the first time.
PRIMARY BENEFIT: Very good oil protection, better heat-shedding than most motorcycle oils.
SECONDARY BENEFIT: small improvement in power at the rear wheel compared to most oils, reduce mechanical noises, reduce blow-by.
CONS: Once you swap, you'll never want to go back to regular, cheaper oils. Expensive habit.
DANGERS: Over-Torquing the oil drain plug can result in damage to the oil pan. Under-torquing can result in plug vibrating out & oil dumping unexpectedly at speed.
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DETAILS:
The engine on a 600 Katana is actually the old oil-cooled GSXR
750 motor with sleeves* (well, on the older engines; the late
models have direct-bore cylinders with no sleeves) to choke it
down to 600 CC displacement and a different set of valves & cams
to change the engine behavior. Without changing the engine
internals, the single biggest performance boost you can give
your engine is switching to a good quality motor oil, such as Castrol GPS synthetic
motorcycle oils or Mobil 1 Racing 4T (formerly MX4T)
(doesn't void warrantee if using 10 to 20 weight rated oils in the API SF/SG categories). You'll notice the
difference from most types of oil (we recommend driving both
immediately before and immediately after the oil change to feel
the difference).
To learn more about motorcycle motor oils, read: CyberPoet's How to understand and choose motorcycle
motor oils.
*** DO NOT USE API SJ, SL OR SM rated oils, nor any marked "Energy Conserving" in the lower half of the API ring in your Katana/GSXF! ***
For an even more substantial performance difference, you can try
Castrol R4 SuperBike Oil
(5W-40) (or any other Ether-based 10w40/5w40), but the lighter nature of the oil may induce some
pumping or lubrication problems at low RPM's when cold (when the
oil pressure is at it's lowest, such as at idle), and it will
probably void your warrantee (since it's lighter than Suzuki's
recommended weights for the Katana; see Caution, below). That
said, I ran R4 as the standard oil in one of my Kantana's for
12,250 miles without any issues as a result that I noticed (high
speeds and in the Florida heat to boot!), but I will not
recommend to anyone else for street usage and I may have worn my
rings down some as a result of using it (got a new, younger Kat
so I can't say what happened to that one after the 12.25k miles
I ran the R4 -- just that it was good up till then). Castrol has
just released R4 formulations in 10w40, 10w50 and 15w50 in the
UK; if we're lucky, we'll get the same in the USA one of these days...
CAUTION: Do not use
Castrol R4 SuperBike oil
during the engine break-in period. We recommend
using traditional motorcycle dino oils (Kendell's 4-stroke motorcycle oil is supposedly very
high in special compounds for the engine break-in period [anti-galling compounds] if I can find it,
or I traditionally use Castrol Evo4), and changing them at least
twice as often as recommended during the break-in
procedure (as well as the oil filter). More often is better, and changing the oil on
a new bike at 40 and 100 miles makes sense. The metal shavings
generated during break-in scratching the various internal
engine parts are the source of most long term performance
losses that can be readily prevented. As it is, even well
past break-in, I almost always change my oil every 2,800 to 3,000 miles
(depending on the type of driving done, given Suzuki's recommendation of 3500 miles or sooner) and have never
regretted it.
CAUTION: Suzuki's Katana
Owner's Manual specifies the following weight oils for use in the '88 - '06 Katana / GSXF
engines:
SUZUKI'S PRIMARY RECOMMENDATION:
10W-40 (for ambient temperature ranges of -20° to 40°+ C / -4° to 104°+ F)
I feel Castrol GPS 10W-40 or Mobil 1 MX4T are great choices in that recommendation category, but will endorse any motor oil
which meets both JASO-MA and API SF/SG rating requirements specifically (not API SJ, SL or SM!)
ALTERNATIVE KATANA OIL WEIGHT RECOMMENDATIONS BY SUZUKI:
10W-50 (for ambient temperature ranges of -20° to 40°+ C / -4° to 112°+ F)
10W-30 (for ambient temperature ranges of -20° to 30°C / -4° to 86° F)
15W-40 (for ambient temperature ranges of -15° to 40°+ C / 8° to 104°+ F)
15W-50 (for ambient temperature ranges of -15° to 40°+ C / 8° to 112°+ F)
20W-50 (for ambient temperature ranges of -10° to 40°+ C / 15° to 112°+ F)
NOTE: This means that NO 5 weight oils are recommended by the manufacturer.
ALSO NOTE: If the ambient temp is going to exceed 104° (F)
within 18" of the road surface, you should use a 20W-50. Unsure? Would you burn your foot to stand on the pavement barefoot? Then
use the 20W-50.
CAUTION: For a
reason that only the original engineers can readily
understand, Suzuki used a harder metal in the oil drain
plug than they did in the oil pan construction. As a
result, you can readily over-torque the oil drain plug and
strip out the threads in the oil pan if you use too much
force, resulting in an expensive repair (replacement oil
sump pan: $137.89; matching gasket: $12.88; labor: 1 to 2
hours, plus an oil change, OR at least the hassles of retapping
the pan to a larger size plug). Conversely, if you do not install the oil drain
plug tightly enough, the plug can vibrate lose and drop out
at speed, dumping the motor oil directly in front of the
rear tire (which, thanks to one inept mechanic, almost
resulted in me running into the back of a cop car one day
as I tried to stop for a red light while the rear was
sliding around in a hot puddle of oil being freshly
dumped). We HIGHLY recommend you use a torque wrench and tighten
the drain to the factory specification of: 23
Newton-Meters, or 2.3 kg-m, or 16.5 Foot-lbs (all 3
measures are equivalent).
Additionally, there is an optional upgrade available that
eliminates the oil pan drain altogether -- the Fumoto Oil Drain Valve.
Installation will require cutting away part of the raised ridge
next to the oil drain bolt to permit screwing in the Fumoto
Valve, but once installed, this latching petcock drain never
needs to be removed again -- just lift & turn the petcock latch
to open. About $25. And yes, I use one. See KatRiders.com for details
on installation and pics.
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UPGRADE:
METZELER ME Z6 Tires
Swap Tires and get an unbelievable improvement in handling, grip & confidence.
COST:
FRONT TIRE: Metzeler ME Z6, 120/70 ZR17
($86 - $135, depend on source).
COST:
REAR TIRE: Metzeler ME Z6, 150/70 ZR17
($98 - $189, depend on source).
COST:
MOUNTING TIRES: Varies with shop used
(expect $15 - $42 per tire).
BENEFIT: Radically better handling, grip than on the original tires, and then other brands tried.
BENEFIT: Good wet-weather stability, sharper turn-ins, more nimble handling.
CONS: Tires may not last quite as long as some cheaper no-name touring tires. Expect 4.5k miles from the front, 8k from the rear with hard driving.
DANGERS: Your confidence level may get high enough to scrape the fairing during turns.
DETAILS:
Although every factory bike supposedly comes with a special
tire designed just for it, the Katana's stock tires are
actually about the worst possible in terms of feel and
handling. Over the years, I have rotated through various
manufacturer's tires (including Michelins Macadams, Dunlop
205's & 207's, Pirelli Diablo's, and Metzelers' Z4 & Z6, among others), and although the
Dunlops were a step up from the stock tires, nothing (and I
do mean nothing) has provided the razor sharp handling and
utter confidence the Metzeler's Z4/Z6 tires provided. The
difference was like night and day, nothing short of
spectacular. Adding to the noticeable difference between
the Dunlops and the ME Z6's was that the tires that just
came off the bike weren't thread-bare (but instead had
sucked up a nail). I just repeated this upgrade (Aug 2003)
with another Katana 600 (2001 model), going from Michelin
Macadams to the ME Z4's and again I am left astonished by
the radical differences in the bike's geometry, steering
and braking characteristics as a result.
Although Metzeler makes softer compound tires in this
design (from the race track soft ME Z1 through the
street-sport-touring ME Z4), the power and weight bias of
the Katana doesn't really get served by any softer
compounds than the ME Z4/Z6. What about the new ME 330/550
tires? Well, they might be good, but they are designed for
a lighter weight bike than the Katana is when wet (fueled,
oiled) and loaded with an adult rider & possible passenger:
stick to the ME Z6. Also remember to keep the tire pressures
up - a 200lb rider with gear should be running about 35 psi in front
and 38 psi in rear (the Suzuki recommended tire pressures are based
on the stock tire and a 140lb rider load!).
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NEW INFORMATION: Metzeler has phased out the ME Z4
and replaced it with a new tire called the RoadTec Z6,
designed to fill the same sport-touring niche with
supposedly better wet and dry performance. I ran through three
sets of Z4's over the years before switching to the Z6's once
the Z4's weren't available any more. Although there are qualities
of the Z4's that I liked better (specifically the front wheel groove
on the Z6 doesn't appeal to me), the tire itself is grippier than
the Z4 and should (according to Metzeler) provide both longer treadwear
life and somewhat stickier traction in the rain.
CAUTION: We do not
recommend that individuals install their own tires, and
instead recommend using a professional shop that has proper
tire mounting equipment. Always have your tires balanced,
and if using an after-market valve stem cover (such as
TireFlys), ask they be on the wheel when it's balanced.
Also note that some shops charge different rates based on
whether you bought the tire from them or not (total
profit), and based on whether you bring them just the wheel
or the whole bike (differences in labor required to remove
the wheel). Do the math and decide if it's cheaper to
remove the wheels and deliver them yourself with new tires,
or just order tires and drop off the
bike.
NOTE: You might ask, "what
about rain?" Living in Florida, we have torrential downpours through-out the summer
months (2 to 5 inches in an hour isn't unheard of), and these tires, at least in a warm
ambient temperatures, are amazingly solid in the wet at speed -- better so than any
other brand I've tried on the late model Katana's.
CAUTION: The single most ignored
source of problems on motorcycles (other than maybe the oil level) is the tire pressure. Check
your tire pressure each time before you ride (so the tires are cold). Walmart sells a wonderful
foot-operated bicycle tire pump with an integrated tire pressure gauge that works like a charm,
and lets me easily set the tire pressure. Adjusting your tire pressure upwards and downwards
by a pound or two will change the handling characteristics of the bike. Do not run your tires more than 10%
under the recommended tire pressure, nor above the maximum rated pressure of the tire, or you may cause a spontaneous tire blow-out (the last thing
you ever want to have happen on a bike you're riding).
CHEAPEST SOURCE
FOUND: The least expensive source we've found
in the USA for replacement Metzeler Z6 tires has been American Motorcycle
Tire (Americanmototire.com) as of March '05, coming in at $187 + S&H for the pair.
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UPGRADE:
CASTROL DOT3/4+ GT LMA CLEAR BRAKE FLUID
OR VALVOLINE SynPower CLEAR BRAKE FLUID
Improve brake grip and spot contamination immediately.
COST: $3.50 - $7, bottle of
Castrol GT LMA Clear Brake Fluid, or
Valvoline SynPower Clear Brake Fluid, any auto parts store.
TIME: 30 to 45 minutes (first time), Front Brakes.
TIME: 15 to 30 minutes (first time), Rear Brake.
BENEFIT: Better brake feel, clear liquid allows you to see aging or contamination immediately.
CONS: Lack of caution could result in getting some brake fluid on the paint, which will ruin it, or in your eyes/mouth/nose.
DANGERS: Letting air into the brakes or not closing the bleeder nipple may cause brakes to partially or completely fail.
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DETAILS:
Most riders don't know that all motorcycle brake line hoses are water
vapor permeable over time, and that as a result, you need
to change your brake fluid every other year (every year in
high humidity locations, like Florida). Changing your brake
fluid flushes out any contaminants, including water (the
most serious brake fluid contaminant) and restores or
improves braking feel and feedback. We searched out and
found a couple very high temperature clear brake fluids that
exceed both DOT 3 and DOT 4 standards (and are compatible
with both). Why clear? Because unlike yellow or brown
fluids which are difficult to notice a color change in over
time, with a clear fluid, you can immediately see if it's
yellowing with age. Additionally, it will help keep the
brake fluid check windows (the little circles in the brake
fluid reservoirs) from yellowing with age.
CAUTION: Permitting
air to get into your brake line hoses will destroy your
ability to stop. Never run the lines dry while flushing the
brakes. Consult a service manual for assistance if
needed.
CAUTION: Because of
the locations of the brake reservoirs on the Katana, you do
not need any special pressurization tools to bleed the
brakes (they are all gravity fed when the bike is up on the
center stand, although the correct procedure is to bleed them
only under applied brake pressure), but you do need to ensure that the old brake
fluid is captured and that neither old nor new brake fluid
gets on your paint (brake fluid liquefies paint and eats
it). I use a gallon plastic milk jug with one quarter of
the top cut out to catch the brake fluid, with newspapers
or a plastic drop cloth spread underneath the wheel to catch
any excess.
CAUTION: When
pumping brake fluid, upon releasing the nipple, brake fluid
can spray out under pressure and get into your eyes, nose
or mouth. Always wear glasses or goggles to protect your
vision, and keep a rag over the nipple to prevent spray
from shooting onto you. Apply the brake pedal or handle by hand,
then quickly open & close the nipple to release some fluid under pressure.
Repeat at each of the three nipples until all old fluid has been replaced.
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UPGRADE:
CORBIN GUNFIGHTER & LADY SADDLE
Improve Seating Position, handling by shifting Center of Gravity (CG), and make passengers happy campers.
COST: $259, plus S&H, straight from Corbin.
TIME: 10 minutes.
BENEFIT: No more back pain. No numb butt after even 8 hours of riding. Better seating position. Better handling. Reduced wind drag. Less wrist strain.
CONS: Once you put on a saddle, you'll buy one for every bike you own from here on out. Leather requires conditioning every month or so.
DANGERS: Failure to specify your inseam measurement may result in a seat too wide for you to comfortably touch the ground, if you are
already close to that limit with the stock seat.
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DETAILS:
A typical rider rides on the seat that came with the
motorcycle until it falls apart or they sell the bike. The
stock seat, although fairly nice, is a far shot from the
comfort and position possible with a great saddle ("Gee,
what's the difference between a saddle and a seat? A
motorcycle seat is something you sit your crotch on, a
saddle is something your butt rests across. Think horses
and saddles..."). Corbin's Gunfighter seat is available for
all years of Katanas built, and offers a radically change
in seating position, including lowering the actually
position downwards for better handling by changing the
center of gravity (and also spreading out the seating area
wider).
General rule of thumb: if you ride more than 25 minutes in
a stretch on a regular basis, or if you tour more than 200
miles at a stretch once a year, or if you have a
girlfriend/wife/co-rider, invest in the
saddle...
It also is a much better seat if you tend to carry
passengers (they will love you for it). When you order your
seat, you can specify without surcharge, colors of the
leather in different areas of the seat, and we find
color-matching the horn of the saddle to the bike gives a
very nice effect and looks far classier than the stock
seat.
SOURCE: Go straight to the manufacturer's Katana page at Corbin.com.
NOTE: Although both I and my other half love the corbin seat, the optional seat-back for
the rear passenger was never able to be adjusted vertically enough to be worthwhile (even with a visit to their factory in person). As a result,
I am loath to recommend spending the extra $$ for the optional removable rear-passenger seat-back, and I constantly ride without it.
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UPGRADE:
TOOL KIT UPGRADE
Reduce the odds of getting stuck somewhere unexpectly.
COST: $15 - $150
TIME: Shopping Time.
BENEFIT: Never get stuck at the side of the road for something minor.
CONS: None.
DETAILS:
Suzuki puts the typical small tool kit under the Katana's seat and it's fine for the most rudimentary
repairs if needed, but there are a number of tools lacking. Fortunately, the seat has loads of space
under it (even with the Corbin saddle mentioned above) compared to almost any other motorcycle,
and more than enough space to pack a proper tool kit.
So what do you need to add to your pack? Well, it depends on the person, but here's what I carry (in two zip-lock
freezer bags, one inside the other, tucked behind the stock tool kit in the cubby by the rear light):
- Leatherman WaveTool - a step up from the old Leatherman multitool. Knife, pliers, saw, etc.
- 15 feet of 12 gauge wire - in case a wire fails en route or I need to fabricate a solution
- MiniMagLite (small, bright flashlight), with a spare bulb and the batteries carried outside the flashlight (so they don't drain)
- Two small shop rags, clean
- A small pair of Vice-Grips
- A set of Metric & SAE Hex keys (the mounted type, so I can't lose them in the dark)
- A sealed windshield wipe, presaturated (for cleaning off bugs from the visor when in the middle of nowhere).
- A dozen plastic wire zip-ties
- About 15 feet of safety bailing wire (to tie down lose items, etc).
I also carry a photocopy of my driver's license (in case I forgot it at any point or lose my wallet -- and as proof
of motorcycle ownership if it's ever stolen) & the registration, in a Zip-lock freezer
bag, duct-taped to the underside of the seat/saddle.
For longer trips, I throw a set of stubby wrenches and a socket set
into the front compartment (Lowe's carries a Kobalt 18 piece metric socket set with all the needed sizes that, even in it's carrying
case, fits into the front cubby with a bit of room to spare, but tight in one direction). A few strips of beef jerky, sealed, some quarters,
and a thermal space blanket (folds down to 1" x 3") rounds out the long-distance touring pack.
SOURCES: Varies, depending on the item.
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UPGRADE:
Ivan's Performance Products STAGE 1 JET KIT
Improve Acceleration significantly across the board (I believe this is a better upgrade than DynoJet's/K&N's by far).
ALTERNATIVE UPGRADE:
K&N / DynoJet STAGE 1 JET KIT
Improve Acceleration up to about 110 mph at the cost of the top end speed.
ALTERNATIVE UPGRADE:
FactoryPro's STAGE 1 JET KIT
Improve Acceleration in general -- I have not tested this jetkit, unlike the other two.
ALTERNATIVE UPGRADE:
ENRICHEN YOUR MIXTURE WITH THE STOCK JETS
Improve Acceleration by a smaller amount across the board.
COST: SRP $129 - K&N/DynoJet, FactoryPro or Ivan's Stage 1 Jet Kit
COST: EST $250 - Install Stage 1 Jet Kit and set, balance carbs by a mechanic; do it yourself for pennies and spend some of the
extra $$ you saved on a carb sync, such as the premier one on the market (Morgan CarbTuneII).
COST: EST $0 to $120 - Enrichen your mixture on your existing jets (parts, time, manual).
TIME: 1 to 4 hours for a good mechanic, depending on how much adjustment needs to be done.
BENEFIT: Ivan's: Powerband change to significant increased power from idle to about 9,940 RPM
BENEFIT: DynoJet: Powerband change to significant increased power from about 2,500 RPM to about 9,800 RPM.
BENEFIT: Much faster acceleration/decelleration (RPM Changes).
CONS: Gas mileage drop to 110 - 130 miles per tank (not including reserve).
CONS: More likely to gain points on license.
CONS: DynoJet: Less power above 10,000 RPM, thus loss of some top-end speed (i.e. over 110 - 115 MPH).
CONS: Louder exhaust sound, deeper grumble (might be a benefit or a con, depending on viewpoint).
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DETAILS:
Motorcycles destined for the US, Canada, and Europe are set at the factory to
have very lean fuel values in order to ensure emissions compliance with all
requirements in the various countries as the bike shipped from the factory.
This lean burning mixture rate deprives the motorcycle of easily feasible
power. You have two options: resetting your existing carborator jets to
enrichen the mixture (so as to provide more gasoline vapors to the engine), or
swap out the jets & needles that control the mixture with larger jets and redesigned needles. Such swap-outs
come in stages of improvement, and stage 1 is the only stage you can use with
the existing factory exhaust (a stage 2 will require replacing
the exhaust headers and exhaust pipes with new ones designed for that stage of
kit, stage 3 requires replacement of the headers and the air intake system).
I would suggest going the cheaper route first and seeing how that serves you.
Access your carborator and reset the mixture adjustment screws about a fifth of
turn to enrichen the mixture (make sure you turn all the screws exactly the
same amount to retain your carboration balance between the cylinders).
Afterwards, go for a ride and check for any bogging down that would imply you
either turned the screws too far or any hesitation that would imply you turned
the screws in the wrong direction.
If you're not comfortable handling such delicate carborator work yourself,
order the jet kit and then have a shop professionally install them. Whenever
the jets are changed, the carborators have to be rebalanced, aka "Sync'd" (set to each
provide the same vacuum level to each cylinder, since there is a carborator
for each individual cylinder on the Katanas), and this will factor into the
shop time required to do the work. Much of the time will be spent getting to the
carbs, and reassembly after the work.
Out of the JetKits I have tried, Ivan's Stage 1 kit is by far the best, and the least likely
to require any additional tuning after installation, given stock exhaust and intake systems. If you
have an aftermarket exhaust header, freer-flowing exhaust can, and/or modified air intake system (such
as a K&N filter or air pods instead of airbox), additional tuning will probably be necessary, and the
fastest/easiest way to have it done right is the use of an exhaust gas analyzer and dyno to permit the
mechanic to see exactly where in the RPM ranges the fuel-air mixture is lean or rich.
CAUTION: Gasoline is both extremely flammable, explosive, and
mildly carcinogenic. Exercise appropriate cautions when working with carboration, fuel, fuel-air mixtures, and/or
any flammable materials in general.
NOTE: For rough comparisons, see the following dyno charts which
compare stock to stage 1 and to stage 1 plus a new matched exhaust system. Note that I am not specifically endorsing
this firm's products (having never tried them, I can't vouch for them personally):
Dyno 150 charts.
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UPGRADE:
Added Cargo Space/Luggage
OPTION A:
UPGRADE:
GIVI HARD SIDED LUGGAGE
Carry a couple suitcases worth of space for touring or work.
EST COST: $150 (mounting system, PL525 or PL518), $239 (each bag, E360), total: $630
GIVI Rack Mounting System plus two color-matched 50 Liter Hardsided Bags.
TIME: About 2 hours to install the GIVI mounting system (includes relocating the back blinkers), 1 minute to mount/unmount bags.
BENEFIT: GIVI: Take along enough clothes to stay gone a week easy, even in cold weather. Big enough to hold two medium sized full-face helmets or 2 grocery store paper bags (full) plus two gallons of milk -- per bag!.
BENEFIT: GIVI: Bags are removable (with key), and blinkers get relocated to a higher, more visible position even when bags are not mounted. Bags are weatherproof!
BENEFIT: GIVI: Bags have reflective strip all around them (about 1.5" wide), and bags are color-matched to your existing paint exactly.
CONS: GIVI: When bags are in place, drag causes attainable top speed to drop by 12 to 20 MPH (expect to cap off around 105 - 110 MPH).
CONS: GIVI: Must remove rear grab rail permanently, since Givi mounting system uses same mounting location, but bags have top-sided grabs for passengers.
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OPTION B:
ALTERNATIVE UPGRADE:
SUZUKI OEM REAR RACK
Carry a couple paperbacks or a helmet on a small rack that replaces the rear grab rail. [NOTE: Obsoleted from Suzuki inventory in 2004]
ALTERNATIVE COST: $62.95 - Suzuki Accessory Rear Rack.
TIME: About 10 minutes for the Suzuki accessory.
BENEFIT: Suzuki Rear Rack: Give yourself a place to strap down school books, a small bag, much cheaper.
CONS: No weather protection, tiny size (8.5" x 5").
NOTES: The two options (A & B) can not be mounted together, since they both utilize the same mounting points. Givi also makes an optional top-case mounting system (to go with the side cases) that holds another
60 or 70 liters, but I think the system wasn't offered for the Katana last time I checked.
DETAILS:
The Katana is considered a "Sport-Touring" motorcycle (as
verses to "Street-Sport" like the GSXR). It's forte is long
distance riding at fairly high speeds in comfort, and when
combined with the various upgrades on this page, it becomes
an extremely capable touring machine. But, if you are going
touring, you are going to need some way of hauling around
your clothes, toothbrush, etc., and in that sense, the
softsided luggage available on the market just doesn't
really provide any great benefit over a big backpack. Enter
Givi, an Italian company that makes what I personally
believe are the world's best hard sided luggage for the
japanese market bikes. Available in 30, 44 and 50 liter
sizes, these hard sided bags latch into a mounting system
that stays on the bike. How big is 50 liters? Um... two
medium full-face helmets butted up next to each other. A
week's worth of clothes. Two gallons of milk, plus two
paper grocery bags packed to the gills. And that's per each
50 liter hard sided bag! Moreover, the bags don't have to
be in place, so you can just use them when you need them
and leave them at home the rest of the time. Each bag has
it's own lock (be sure to order your bags with matching
locks, so one key opens both), and the lock must be used to
remove it from the mounting system (keeps people from
making off with your bags at restaurant stops,
etc).
The only down-sides really are that they are pretty pricey
(about the same cost as good samsonite luggage), and their
size drops the top-end speed of the bike when they are
mounted to around 110 MPH by virtue of added wind-drag.
Really pricey as far as upgrades go. But they are generally
worth it, and definitely worth it if you tend to go
cross-country or longish distances (or the Katana is your
only vehicle and you need to go grocery shopping for more
than a backpack's worth at a time). The bags also make an
excellent place to hide your other half's
birthday/christmas/anniversary present when they are at
home in the closet, because she'll never open them without
the key...
What to know: Givi lists the PL525 as the correct
mounting kit for the side-mount bags for the 2002/2003 Katana
600/750 models. Givi's reps also say that the firm stopped
production on the PL525, so they are no longer available in
the supply chain. What they don't tell you is that the
PL518 is an effective and capable solution, although you may have
to change the washers and/or bolts included (in terms of length/thickness). From my own experience,
I installed the PL518 on a 2000 Katana 600 and it was a
bear to fit according to their instructions (until I
figured out that I needed to replace the included nylon
spacer bushings with much thinner replacements from my
local hardware store, and grab a couple bolts that were
longer or shorter than the stock ones used on the rear grab
rail by 1/4" -- then suddenly everything lined up
correctly).
UPDATE: Installed the PL518 on the 2001
Katana 600, and it worked correctly without flaw and with the
included bolts & washers from the kit, although it was
a bit tricky an install. So, even with the revised rear foot peg
holders on the 2001+ models, it still works correctly. Cool!
Other thing to know: in addition to the
bags and the mounting kit, you'll need the following things to
do the installation properly:
- 12 feet of 16 gauge automotive grade wire;
- 6 feet of 3/16" 2:1 heat shrink tubing per side, to cover a pair of the
above wires (or 3/8" and two layers of it);
- A small tube of black silicone exterior grade automotive caulk;
- 12 black wire zip-ties, 4" or longer.
The installation will require rewiring the blinkers so
that they have substantially longer leads (the rear
blinkers sit out on the outside of the mounts, higher and
wider than their original position -- which [BONUS] makes
them much more visible as well). To do this correctly, they
need to have additional wire soldered or crimped to them to
span the distance, the heat shrink tubing covering the
wires (because they will be exposed to the elements); the
black silicone caulk is used to fill the place the wires
exit the blinker assembly to prevent water intrusion (since
it's no longer inside the fairing); and the wire tires are
for routing the cabling around the bag mounts so they
neither flap in the wind, nor get pinched by the bags or
bodywork.
Suzuki's Rear Rack upgrade is just a convenience, but one that might be worthwhile to you if you
tend to use the bike to go to school, etc. It gives you a small area (8.5" x 5" as the top
surface) to strap things down onto, just right for a gym roll or a couple paperbacks.
Personally, I think that's too small to be useful at all, really...
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NOTES: The paint on the GIVI bags isn't as hard as the paint on the bike,
and thus easier to scuff or scratch. The bags themselves are made of ABS plastic and are quite resilient to damage.
CAUTION: If using the GIVI bags and one bag is loaded heavier than the other (or you
are only using a single bag at the time), make
sure to place the heavy bag (or sole bag) on the left side of the bike (the side that the side-stand comes down onto), and always reattach the
heavier bag first and remove it last. This will keep the bag from causing the bike to come off-balance while parked. Only applies if your bag contains heavy items (like tools
or a big bag of dog food). Not an issue when the bike is on it's center stand.
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UPGRADE:
Headlight/Tail light flashers, Running Lights
Install for Visibility to others, reduced accident rates by up to 20%.
COST: $29 - $200
TIME: 30 minutes to 2 hours.
BENEFIT: Reduces odds of being rear-ended, or lane-changed into.
CONS: Not all systems fit the Katana -- be sure to buy the right size & kind the first time around.
DETAILS:
Certain modification to the lighting system improves
visibility of your Katana. Under US Federal DOT laws, you
are permitted to use a flashing white headlight oscillator
during the day that cycles your headlight from low-beam to
high-beam and back again a couple times a second. Carefully
ignoring the law slightly will permit you to mount an
actual white stroke flasher in the headlight casing, which
is even more visible (and tends to cause people to get out
of your lane because of the subconscious thought that you
are a cop -- but may get you in trouble with the law enforcement in your area).
Note that this system is not legal for
night-time usage under US Federal law, and thus must have a
switch or light-sensor to regulate it for when you drive at
night.
Similarly, you can install tail-light flashers that
oscillate the brake light when you apply the brakes. There
are different kinds out there, but the best we've seen
flashes quickly for the first second, slower for the second and then becomes a steady on after that (the pattern
is designed to specifically attract driver attention from
behind and signal that they really need to slow down).
There are also LED bulbs designed to be brighter than
standard taillight bulbs, but the bulb-retention hole in
the rear lights do not fit the oversized bulb casings that
are usually associated with LED bulbs. We do sell a customized
version of the 98 - 02 tail assembly that comes with an oversized
48-LED bulb. | 
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NOTE:
I used to recommend use of TireFly's and TireFly Pro's -- until several
issues made me change my mind. Although the add visibility is good, I have
watched them literally rip a tire stem out due to the added weight/stress, as
well as seen damages to rubber tire stems as a result of using them. Subsequently,
I changed my mind about their use -- the risk of an unexpected almost instaneous tire
deflation due to a failed stem is, in my humble opinion, NOT worth the benefit of the
added visibility.
There are passive rim decals now available on the market that use high-relection
grade materials (think ambulance emergency grade reflective tape) precut to fit motorcycle rims,
as well as reflective clear paints that can be added over existing rims, as well as reflective-return
additives for powder coating that can be used on rims. I am going to recommend these instead.
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