How to winterize or store your motorcycle.....

How to winterize (in terms of storage) your motorcycle for an extended period of time. How to store it for any period from 30 days to 10 years and beyond. And how to de-winterize it, or prep it again after storage for riding.

Virtually every motorcycle owner will need to store their motorcycle at some point, either because of the intrusion of winter (if you live in a place you're not willing to ride during the cold months), or because of a trip, travel, business, to save it as a later collector's item, or other reason. This page is designed to help guide you in winterizing or preparing your bike for short-term or long-term storage in a way that minimizes damage to the bike from neglect, weather elements and time. Note that not every step will apply to every bike -- for example, if you ride a Katana, a type of motorcycle which does not use water/coolant, then you can ignore the step about draining the coolant. And some steps are for those who are very fanatical or are planning on storing the bike for a very long period of time (such as a year or more, like I did when I joined the army).

• Items in blue are for specific recommendations (products, procedures).
• Items in crimson-red are very important, but are specific to certain types of equipment only.
• Items in bold-bright-red are safety issues for your health & well-being and should not be ignored!
• Items in black are generally applicable to all bikes, but use some common sense when deciding for yourself.

1. Short Term Storage (25 to 60 days), if you will start-up the bike every week.
2. Short Term Storage (30 to 60 days), if you will NOT be starting the bike up.
3. Long Term & Winter Storage (60+ days).
4. Extended Term Motorcycle Storage (240+ days to a decade).
5. Preservation Storage (for storing a bike for decades, when brand new)

• If storing the bike over 29 days without starting, obtain a fuel stabilizer and add it to your tank just before topping off.
   
• Top off the gas tank to chock-full, taking the time to burp it and wait for it to settle, then adding more. This will help prevent rust from building in your gas tank by eliminating any air which might cause condensation to form at a later time.
   
• Turn Fuel Petcock to "OFF" if available. If not available, pull the vacuum line to the petcock (at either end). Run your engine until it dies from lack of fuel. This will have drained out the excess fuel in the carbs. If you disconnected the vacuum line, reconnect it at this time.
   
• Top off your brake fluids to 100% (to the rim, not just to the manufacturer's recommended mark), drain a little out of each brake caliper at the nipple under pressure. This will help remove water from the calipers and lines to ensure your calipers don't rust stuck from the inside. Fill brake fluid to 100% again and recap.
   
• Pump your tires up to the maximum pressure they are rated for according to the sidewall rating by the manufacturer (usually higher than the recommended pressure you drive on by 6 to 10 PSI or so). This will help keep the tires "round" and assist in preventing flat spots.
   
• If present on your bike, park motorcycle on your centerstand. If you have a racing stand but no center stand, park it on the racing stand. If you have neither, consider purchasing and installing a center stand (a god-send for many occasions), purchasing and using a racing stand, or building a stand out of 2x4's to support your forks, frame and A-arm in the rear. You want to get the back tire off the ground before storage, so it doesn't become oval or get a flat spot.
   
• Build a stand or chocks out of 2x4's to support your forks so that your front wheel is about 1/2" to 1" off the floor. You want to get the front tire off the ground before storage, so it doesn't become oval or get a flat spot, while still keeping your rear wheel off the ground as well (by virtue of the center stand or racing stand or stand you built).
   
• Top off your oil to the recommended amount, plus one to two quarts or liters of extra oil extra above the recommended amount (to totally cover the crank shaft in oil to prevent rust and seizing), but not enough to soak the cylinders.
   
• Remove the spark plugs, spray fogging marine-grade oil into the cambers (we recommend CRC's Engine Stor). Coat the threads of the spark plugs with antiseize paste. Reinsert plugs to somewhere between finger-tight and standard (but do not torque them all the way down).
   
• Insert a towel covered by a plastic bag into the air intake for the air filter. If you have separate air filters for each cylinder (example: certain K&N models), cover each filter with aluminum foil. This will help keep out bugs and rodents who will find your bike a nice dry place to live.
   
• Clean and slather your chain with automotive grease (not a spray oil or wax, but automotive grease). Cover the chain completely.
   
• If your bike uses coolant, and it will NOT be exposed to freezing temperatures: top off your coolant/water mixture to the recommended amount, using coolant (too much coolant is better than too much water).
   
• If your bike uses coolant, and it MAY be exposed to freezing temperatures: drain all coolant from the radiator and cooling system, including the reservoir.
   
• Remove your battery and top off each cell with distilled water (use only distilled water!). Place on a wooden surface (not stone, concrete or steel -- a wooden board on the floor will do, but a wooden shelf or work bench is better), leave caps off the battery (but cover the top with wax paper to prevent splashing and keep dust from settling into the battery cells). Connect a motorcycle trickle charger (rated at less than the max continuous charge-amp rate for the battery -- we recommend using as small as one as feasible, such as a .5 amp, as well as the BatteryTender Jr. by Deltran).
   
• Examine your brake rotors, if your bike uses brake rotors (most post-1985 bikes do). If the rotors are made of steel, skip this step. If the rotors are made of cast iron (noticeable by the presence of rust on the outer edge of the rotor, and anywhere the pads don't touch), unbolt the calipers, remove the pads, smear rotors with automotive grease to cover the entire surface. This will prevent them from rusting solid. Leave caliper & pads off.
   
• Obtain a bike cover.
   
  
  • If the bike will be parked indoors, such as in a garage or other semi-heated location, get a breathable dust cover, and cover bike.
     
  • If the bike will be stored outdoors over concrete, or in an outbuilding (such as a garden shed) over concrete, get a waterproof bike cover and a sheet or roll of construction plastic, 4 mils or thicker (any hardware store). Cover bike with waterproof cover, then cover that with the sheet of construction plastic. Weight down the edges of the construction plastic with bricks, stones or other heavy items.
     
  • If the bike will be stored outdoors over concrete, or in an outbuilding (such as a garden shed), parking over dirt, sand, grass or anything other than concrete or stone, place plastic sheet on floor where you intend to park bike. Spread cat litter over plastic. Move bike over sheet and park. Cover bike with waterproof cover, then cover that with another sheet of construction plastic. Weight down the edges of the construction plastic with bricks, stones or other heavy items, and staple edges of under-sheet to edges over over-sheet. Cover edges with sand or dirt.
     
  
   

• Purchase or obtain in advance:
• a gas can (empty, at least as big as your tank's capacity)
• a bottle of Techron pour-in fuel injector cleaner
• a new oil filter
• three to five quarts (whatever amount your bike takes) of fresh motorcycle motor oil (preferably oil high in anti-galling compounds)
• a fresh set of spark plugs
• a can of QuickStart or other starting spray containing a lubricant and an ether (WD-40 will do in a pinch)
• some distilled water (at least a gallon if your bike uses coolant, less if it doesn't)
• a chemical degreaser or liquid dish detergent
• some paper towels or shop rags
• a bottle of the appropriately rated brake fluid (i.e. - DOT4, DOT3, etc).
• a large can of spray brake cleaner
   

• Remove the bike's cover(s);
   
• Remove the excess air pressure from your tires back to the motorcycle manufacturer's recommended levels.
   
• Remove restriction to the air filter(s) we placed there when storing the bike (towel wrapped in a plastic bag, or aluminum foil over the filter).
   
• If you used a fuel stabilizer, or stored bike for more than 30 days, drain gas from gas tank into gas can, check for presence of rust in tank.
  If present, follow this procedure before continuing: How to deal with rust in your gas tank.
   
• Place old gas in a car, lawn mower or other vehicle or storage container;
  do not reuse in the motorcycle!
   
• Drain the motor oil, change oil filter, and replace oil with fresh motor oil.
  Do not use the motor oil you stored the bike with, because it has built up acids and as a result, it's viscosity is now probably insufficient to provide adequate start-up lubrication.
   
• Unplug trickle charger at wall, and disconnect from battery.
   
• Top off any battery cells requiring fluid with distilled water (and only distilled water!), and recap cells.
   
• Clean grease from chain, first by wiping excess away with a rag or paper towel, then cleaning with a degreaser. Lube as usual.
   
• Remove front wheel from stands or fork chocks.
   
• If you drained your coolant, refill the radiator, cooling system and reservoir with pure distilled water. Recap it. You will flush this out later.
   
• If you topped off your coolant, recheck it.
   
• If you greased up your cast iron rotors:
  • wipe off the excess grease with paper towels or shop rags, then;
  • use a chemical degreaser or liquid dish detergent to remove the rest.
  • Once clean, spray liberally with brake cleaner to remove any residue. Be sure to get all grease out of any cross-drilled holes!
  • Reinstall pads and calipers.
     
• If you have steel rotors, spray them heavily with spray brake cleaner to remove any dirt, dust, grime and/or oils. Rotate wheels by hand to ensure brakes have not seized.
   
• Flush your brake system completely and set back to the manufacturer's recommended levels.
   
• Reinstall battery.
   
• Turn key to ON position without starting and check that bike is in neutral. If not in neutral, switch to neutral. Turn bike back to off and remove key.
   
• Remove existing spark plugs, pour one teaspoon of fresh motor oil into each cylinder. Gap and install new plugs with antiseize compound on the threads.
   
• Obtain fresh, premium grade gasoline in the gas can. Place 1/3rd of a bottle of the Techron fuel-system cleaner into the motorcycle's tank and then fill up the tank to full with the fresh gasoline.
   
• Ensure that the motorcycle has adequate ventilation for the exhaust fumes before proceeding. Roll the bike outdoors if necessary!
   
• Set choke to full on. Set gas selector switch to prime and wait 2 minutes. Set selector back to normal. Spray some starting fluid into air filter intake hole.
   
• Start bike as normal. Do not rev. Ease off choke as soon as bike will run without it.
   
• WARM UP:
   
  IF WATER-COOLED:
   
  • Run in neutral as long as it takes for the coolant display to come up to minimum operating temperature plus an additional eight minutes. Shut off immediately if overheating occurs and go to next step.
     
  • When complete, shut off as usual;
     
  • Drain coolant or distilled water from bike at this time. Refill with 50% coolant plus 50% distilled water, or whatever mixture rate recommended by your motorcycle manufacturer.
     
  • Your bike is now ready for a test drive... Drive carefully for the first few miles to ensure brakes, clutch and everything else is working as expected!
     
  • When you have cycled through that first tank of post-storage gasoline & fuel system cleaner mix, do another oil change with whatever motorcycle oil you prefer (synthetic, dino, etc). Also lubricate all throttle and choke lines.
     
  IF OIL-COOLED OR AIR-COOLED:
   
  • If oil-cooled or air-cooled, allow to run for a period of fifteen minutes in neutral;
     
  • Your bike is now ready for a test drive... Drive carefully for the first few miles to ensure brakes, clutch and everything else is working as expected!
     
  • When you have cycled through that first tank of post-storage gasoline & fuel system cleaner mix, do another oil change with whatever motorcycle oil you prefer (synthetic, dino, etc). Also lubricate all throttle and choke lines.

3B: WHEN YOU ARE READY TO REMOVE IT FROM THIS FORM OF LONG TERM OR WINTERIZED STORAGE:

• a gas can (empty, at least as big as your tank's capacity)
• a bottle of Techron pour-in fuel injector cleaner
• a new oil filter
• three to five quarts (whatever amount your bike takes) of fresh motorcycle motor oil (preferably oil high in anti-galling compounds)
• a fresh set of spark plugs
• a can of QuickStart or other starting spray containing a lubricant and an ether (WD-40 will do in a pinch)
• some distilled water (at least a gallon if your bike uses coolant, less if it doesn't)
• a water-rinsable chemical degreaser (Sludge-Away), or a big bottle liquid dish detergent
• some rolls of paper towels and a couple shop rags
• a bottle of the appropriately rated brake fluid
• a large can of spray brake cleaner
• If your bike has a radiator: cooling system flush
• If your bike has a radiator: recommended coolant
• If your bike has a radiator: another gallon of distilled water

THEN FOLLOW THESE STEPS
(PREFERABLY IN ORDER FOR YOUR SAFETY):

• If stored under or in plastic sheeting, remove the plastic sheeting carefully.
   
• If Damp Rid was used, remove the Damp Rid containers and drain or discard.
   
• Remove the bike's cover(s);
   
• Inspect under the bike for any leakages of any sort -- address them as necessary before proceeding;
   
• Inspect tires for dry rot or other hazards. Plan to replace if necessary.
   
• Turn front wheel by hand to ensure free rotation, then remove chock blocks from under front forks;
   
• Remove chock blocks from under front forks;
   
• Wipe away excess automotive grease with paper towels from any surface it is present on;
   
• Wash away excess automotive grease and excess vaseline or other brand of petroleum jelly with a water-rinsable degreaser or dish detergent from any surface it is present on (grips, forks, springs, rotors, handle bars, exhaust pipes & headers, etc).
  ** Avoid getting degreaser on your paint or into your electrical system connectors.
  ** AVOID SPRAYING WATER UNDER PRESSURE INTO YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, CONNECTORS AND SWITCHES.
  ** IF YOU GREASED YOUR ROTORS, MAKE SURE ALL GREASE IS OFF THEM, INCLUDING IN ANY CROSS-DRILLED HOLES OR SLOTS!
   
• IF CHAIN DRIVEN: Clean chain and lube as normal. Retension chain to manufacturer's specification.
   
• IF SHAFT DRIVEN: Remove cover from over breather hole. Examine for presence of any foreign objects or contamination. If found, replace shaft lubrication. Reinstall breather cap.
   
• Remove the excess air pressure from your tires, returning to the motorcycle manufacturer's recommended levels.
   
• FUEL & FUEL LINES:
   
  1. Remove fuel petcock from bike and drain tank into gas can. Do not make contents pass through fuel petcock!
      
  2. With tank empty, inspect tank for rust. If present, follow this procedure before continuing: How to deal with rust in your gas tank.
      
  3. Examine old gas. If rust, water, or contamination is present, take away for disposal. If gas appears visually good, consider reuse in a car, lawn mower or other vehicle, or place in a different storage container for the time being.
     do not reuse the old gas in the motorcycle!
      
  4. Replace fuel filter(s) at this time with new ones.
      
  5. Replace fuel and vent lines.
      
  6. Reinstall fuel petcock with new o-ring.
      
  7. Reattach fuel lines, but leave tank loose if necessary to get at plugs.
      
• Drain the motor oil, change oil filter, and replace oil with fresh motorcycle motor oil to the level recommended by the manufacturer.
  We recommend using a motor oil high in anti-galling compounds at this point, such as Kendall or Amsol motor oils. Anti-galling compounds help prevent seizing, an issue that can occur with a bike just coming out of storage. We also recommend using the lightest weight motor oil your manufacturer recommends at this point.
  Do not use the motor oil you stored the bike with, because it has built up acids and it's viscosity is now probably insufficient to provide adequate start-up lubrication. Depending on the environment, it may also have water in it from condensation!
   
• IF BIKE USES COOLANT, AND COOLANT WAS DRAINED:
  • Disassemble water pump housing/cover and remove excess grease with paper towels. Do not wash with degreaser!
  • If feasible by design, turn water pump impellers by hand to ensure free operation.
  • Reassemble water pump housing/cover.
  • Remove excess grease from water passages with paper towels. Do not wash with degreaser!
  • Examine radiator hoses for condition, replace if necessary.
  • Uncap ends of radiator and wipe away excess grease with paper towels. Be thorough.
  • Reinstall radiator hoses.
  • Fill cooling system with cooling system flush and distilled water (not with coolant at this stage!)
    REMEMBER THAT MOST MOTORCYCLE COOLING SYSTEMS ARE SMALLER THAN CARS, SO YOU MAY NEED TO USE LESS COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH. 
  
   
• IF BIKE USES COOLANT, AND COOLANT WAS NOT DRAINED:
  • Examine radiator hoses for condition, replace if necessary.
  • Drain some of the existing coolant mix, to make space for radiator flush compound. Top off cooling mix with radiator flush.
    REMEMBER THAT MOST MOTORCYCLE COOLING SYSTEMS ARE SMALLER THAN CARS, SO YOU MAY NEED TO USE LESS COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH.
  
   
• BRAKES:
  • Examine brake lines for cracks, aging, and replace as necessary.
  • Examine brake pads, shoes for wear, and replace as necessary.
  • Ensuring all possible grease was removed from any rotors (if present), spray brake rotors & calipers liberally with spray brake cleaner.
  • Examine rotors for wear, and replace as necessary.
  • Reinstall pads and calipers (if present).
  • Flush your brake system completely (under pressure) and set fluids back to the manufacturer's recommended levels. Do not permit fluid in the brake fluid reservoir to run dry at any point during the flush!
     
• Remove barriers or covers from air filter(s)/air filter housing(s).
   
• Examine air filter(s) for condition, replace as necessary.
   
• Examine front fork tubes, fork seals. Service/replace as necessary.
   
• Replace fork oil as per manufacturer's procedure.
   
• Remove barriers or covers from exhaust/muffler(s).
   
• Lubricate, re-tighten and adjust all control cables (clutch, choke, throttle, etc).
   
• Have tires remounted if they were unmounted. Reinstall wheels if not on bike.
   
• BATTERY:
   
  1. Unplug trickle charger at wall, and disconnect from battery.
  2. Examine battery case. If case is cracked, replace battery.
  3. Examine battery cells. If any cell has white powder visible within it, or if any cell is at less than 45% volume, replace battery.
  4. If battery passes both examinations, top off any battery cells requiring fluid with distilled water (and only distilled water!) to the full mark, and recap.
  5. Reinstall battery into motorcycle.
  
   
• HAND-TURNING ENGINE, PRESTART PROCEEDURE:
   
  1. Turn key to on position and check bike is in neutral. Turn bike back to off and remove key.
  2. Remove existing spark plugs.
  3. Using a flash light, look into each cylinder and verify that there is no debris inside, nor any build-up of rust. If debris is found, remove before proceeding. If rust is present, stop and seek professional help in rehoning your cylinders before proceeding.
  4. Place 1 tablespoon of motor oil into each cylinder.
  5. Place bike into first or second gear with clutch engaged. Do not turn on key!
  6. Turn rear wheel by hand to rotate engine. Listen for any unusually harsh sounds and feel for any heavy resistance to turning the rear wheel with the spark plugs out, which would indicate something is not right (like a seized water pump). If possible without straining and without using enough force to break anything, rotate rear wheel three full revolutions. If no problems encountered, continue for another dozen to two dozen rotations.
     If excess resistance encountered, stop and seek professional help!
  
   
• Gap new plugs, if they are not pre-gapped (NGK's come pregapped). Coat threads with antiseize and install normally.
   
• Reinstall carborator bowl drain screws or bolts previously removed.
   
• Obtain fresh, premium grade gasoline in the gas can. Place 1/3rd of a bottle of the Techron fuel-system cleaner into the motorcycle's tank and then fill up the tank to full with the fresh gasoline.
   
• Install tank permanently if you have not done so yet.
   
• Ensure that the motorcycle has adequate ventilation for the exhaust fumes before proceeding. Roll the bike outdoors if necessary!
   
• Set choke to full on.
   
• Set gas selector switch to prime and wait 2 minutes. Set selector back to normal.
   
• Remove stopper from gas over-flow/drain hose, if present, and drain. Reinstall cap.
   
• Spray some starting fluid into air filter housing(s).
   
• Start bike as normal. Do not rev. Ease off choke as soon as bike will run without it.
   
• Reinstall seat.
   
• WARM UP:
   
  IF WATER-COOLED:
   
  • Run in neutral as long as it takes for the coolant display to come up to minimum operating temperature plus an additional eight minutes. Shut off immediately if overheating occurs and pursue causes (repair as necessary). Then go to next step.
     
  • When complete, shut off as usual;
     
  • Drain coolant or distilled water from bike at this time. Refill with 50% coolant plus 50% distilled water, or whatever mixture rate recommended by your motorcycle manufacturer.
     
  • Your bike is now ready for a test drive... Drive carefully for the first few miles to ensure brakes, clutch and everything else is working as expected!
     
  • When you have cycled through that first tank of post-storage gasoline & fuel system cleaner mix, do another oil change with whatever motorcycle oil you prefer (synthetic, dino, etc).
     
  IF OIL-COOLED OR AIR-COOLED:
   
  • If oil-cooled or air-cooled, allow to run for a period of fifteen minutes in neutral;
     
  • Your bike is now ready for a test drive... Drive carefully for the first few miles to ensure brakes, clutch and everything else is working as expected!
     
  • When you have cycled through that first tank of post-storage gasoline & fuel system cleaner mix, do another oil change with whatever motorcycle oil you prefer (synthetic, dino, etc).
     

• If stored under or in plastic sheeting, remove the upper plastic sheeting carefully.
   
• If Damp Rid was used, remove the Damp Rid containers and pour out water, then discard.
   
• Remove the bike's cover(s);
   
• Inspect under the bike for any leakages of any sort -- address them as necessary before proceeding;
   
• IF CHAIN DRIVEN AND CHAIN IS STILL ON: Clean chain of grease and lube as normal. Inspect chain and sprockets, replace as necessary. Retension chain to manufacturer's specification.
   
• IF CHAIN DRIVEN AND CHAIN IS OFF: Remove chain from oil and dry. Inspect chain and sprockets, replace as necessary. Reinstall chain. Retension chain to manufacturer's specification.
   
• IF SHAFT DRIVEN: Remove protective aluminum foil cover from over breather hole. Flush shaft oil as per manufacturer instructions, replacing entire contents with recommended type to the recommended level. Inspect breather and replace if necessary (replace foam if necessary). Reinstall breather.
   
• Inspect tires for dry rot or other hazards. Replace as necessary.
   
• Clean wheels, mags and rims and brake rotors of all excess grease.
   
• If tires are not mounted on wheels/mags/rims, have them professionally mounted at this time before proceeding.
   
• If tires are still mounted, remove the excess air pressure from your tires, returning to the motorcycle manufacturer's recommended levels.
   
• Wipe away excess automotive grease with paper towels from any surface it is present on (frame, calipers, handle bars, engine block, chains, wheels, etc);
   
• Reinstall wheels on bike if they had been dismounted previously.
   
• Remove chock blocks from under front forks;
   
• Remove and set aside all fairing pieces, and seat if present, at this time.
   
• Wash away excess automotive grease and excess vaseline or other brand of petroleum jelly with a water-rinsable degreaser (recommended for this application) or dish detergent from any surface it is present on (grips, forks, springs, rotors, handle bars, exhaust pipes & headers, frame, etc). Use a toothbrush on brake rotors, if present, to wash all grease out of any cross-drilled holes or slots.
  ** Avoid getting degreaser on your paint or into your electrical system connectors.
  ** AVOID SPRAYING WATER UNDER PRESSURE INTO YOUR ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, CONNECTORS AND SWITCHES.
  ** MAKE SURE ALL GREASE IS OFF ROTORS AND BRAKES, INCLUDING IN ANY CROSS-DRILLED HOLES OR SLOTS IN THE ROTORS!
   
• FUEL & FUEL LINES - IF TANK WAS STORED EMPTY:
   
  1. Inspect tank for rust. If present, follow this procedure before continuing: How to deal with rust in your gas tank.
  2. Replace fuel filter(s) at this time with new ones.
  3. Examine fuel lines for wear, aging, brittleness. Replace as necessary.
  4. Reinstall fuel petcock with new o-ring.
  5. Reattach fuel lines, but not tank yet (to get at plugs, carbs).
      
• FUEL & FUEL LINES - IF TANK CONTAINS GASOLINE (MORE THAN 12 MONTHS):
   
  1. Remove fuel petcock from bike and drain tank into gas can. Do not make contents pass through fuel petcock!
      
  2. With tank empty, inspect tank for rust. If present, follow this procedure before continuing: How to deal with rust in your gas tank.
  3. Take old away for proper disposal (gas station, service station).
     do not reuse the old gas in the motorcycle!
  4. Replace fuel filter(s) at this time with new ones.
  5. Examine fuel lines for wear, aging, brittleness. Replace as necessary.
  6. Reinstall fuel petcock with new o-ring.
  7. Reattach fuel lines, but not tank yet (to get at plugs, carbs).
      
• FUEL & FUEL LINES - IF TANK CONTAINS GASOLINE (LESS THAN 12 MONTHS):
   
  1. Remove fuel petcock from bike and drain tank into gas can. Do not make contents pass through fuel petcock!
      
  2. With tank empty, inspect tank for rust. If present, follow this procedure before continuing: How to deal with rust in your gas tank.
  3. Examine old gas. If rust, water, or contamination is present, take away for disposal. If gas appears visually good, consider reuse in a car, lawn mower or other vehicle, or place in a different storage container for the time being.
     do not reuse the old gas in the motorcycle!
  4. Replace fuel filter(s) at this time with new ones.
  5. Examine fuel lines for wear, aging, brittleness. Replace as necessary.
  6. Reinstall fuel petcock with new o-ring.
  7. Reattach fuel lines, but not tank yet (to get at plugs, carbs).
      
• ENGINE OIL:
  
  1. Remove spark plugs.
  2. Uncap/uncover engine breather.
  3. Drain the motor oil, allowing to drain for at least 1 full hour (overnight is better). If oil cooler is present, disconnect oil cooler lines at lowest point when draining.
  4. Use a suction pump or syringe (without needle) to pump out any motor oil present in each cylinder (there may be none, if it leaked down to the main galley over the months & years).
     GET ALL MOTOR OIL OUT OF THE CYLINDERS BEFORE PROCEEDING. ANY SIGNIFICANT AMOUNT OF MOTOR OIL IN THE CYLINDERS CAN CAUSE SERIOUS ENGINE DAMAGE WHEN ENGINE IS TURNED OVER (BY HAND OR OTHERWISE).
     
  5. Change oil filter, and replace oil with fresh motorcycle motor oil to the level recommended by the manufacturer.
     We recommend using a motor oil high in anti-galling compounds at this point, such as Kendall or Amsol motor oils. Anti-galling compounds help prevent seizing, an issue that can occur with a bike just coming out of storage. We also recommend using the lightest weight motor oil your manufacturer recommends at this point (i.e. - if you can use 10W40 and 20W50, use 10W40).
     Do not use the motor oil you stored the bike with, because it has built up acids and it's viscosity is now insufficient to provide adequate start-up lubrication. Depending on the environment, it may also have water in it from condensation!
      
• IF BIKE USES COOLANT, AND SYSTEM WAS STORED DRY/EMPTY:
  • Disassemble water pump housing/cover and remove excess grease with paper towels. Do not wash with degreaser!
  • If feasible by design, turn water pump impellers by hand to ensure free operation.
  • Reassemble water pump housing/cover.
  • Remove excess grease from water passages with paper towels. Do not wash with degreaser!
  • Examine radiator hoses for condition, replace if necessary.
  • Uncap ends of radiator and wipe away excess grease with paper towels. Be thorough.
  • Rinse out radiator and coolant passages with warm water liberally to help remove extra grease.
  • Reinstall radiator hoses.
  • Reinstall over-flow tank and hoses.
  • Fill cooling system with cooling system flush (an acid product) and distilled water (not with coolant at this stage!)
    REMEMBER THAT MOST MOTORCYCLE COOLING SYSTEMS ARE SMALLER THAN CARS, SO YOU MAY NEED TO USE LESS COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH. 
  
   
• IF BIKE USES COOLANT, AND SYSTEM WAS STORED IN OIL FILLED STATE:
  • Remove radiator hoses, radiator cap if present, and drain oil from cooling system at lowest point.
  • Disassemble water pump housing/cover and allow excess oil to drain. Do not wash with degreaser!
  • If feasible by design, turn water pump impellers by hand to ensure free operation.
  • Reinstall over-flow tank and hoses.
  • Rinse out radiator and coolant passages with water liberally to help remove extra oil; allow to drip dry.
  • Reassemble water pump housing/cover.
  • Examine radiator hoses for condition (both inside and out), replace if necessary.
  • Reinstall radiator hoses.
  • Fill cooling system with cooling system flush (an acid product) and distilled water (not with coolant at this stage!)
    REMEMBER THAT MOST MOTORCYCLE COOLING SYSTEMS ARE SMALLER THAN CARS, SO YOU MAY NEED TO USE LESS COOLING SYSTEM FLUSH. 
  
   
• BRAKES:
  • Examine brake lines for cracks, aging, and replace as necessary.
  • Examine brake pads, shoes for wear, and replace as necessary.
  • Ensuring all possible grease was removed from any rotors (if present), spray brake rotors & calipers liberally with spray brake cleaner to remove grease.
  • Examine rotors for wear, and replace or have resurfaced as necessary.
  • Reinstall pads and calipers (if present).
  • Flush your brake system completely with new fluid (under pressure) and set fluid level back to the manufacturer's recommended levels. Do not permit fluid in the brake fluid reservoir to run dry at any point during the flush!
     
• IF YOUR BIKE USES CARBORATORS AND THEY WERE REMOVED FOR STORAGE:
  
  1. Get out carborators from storage, remove from bags & wrappings
  2. Spray liberally with spray carborator cleaner
  3. Ensure all seals are good and that carb linkages work without hesitation -- rebuild carborators if in doubt.
  4. Reinstall carborators.
      
• IF YOUR BIKE USES CARBORATORS AND THEY WERE LEFT IN PLACE:
  
  1. Unwrap carborators.
  2. Spray liberally with spray carborators cleaner
  3. Ensure all seals are good and that carb linkages work without hesitation -- rebuild carborators if in doubt.
      
• IF YOUR BIKE USES INJECTORS AND WAS STORED OVER 12 MONTHS:
  
  1. Remove injectors via manufacturer's procedure.
  2. Soak injectors in liquid injector/fuel system cleaner overnight on their sides in a sealed container. Lay them in carefully -- do not drop them in!
  3. If a ultrasonic bath cleaner is available, clean in an ultrasonic bath in liquid injector/fuel-system cleaner for 1 hour as well.
     NOTE: Some ultrasonic cleaners get hot when working. If yours gets hot, do not use it in conjunction with flammable liquids like inject/fuel system cleaner! Skip this step!
  4. Test injectors for proper spray pattern by manufacturer approved method. If questionable, replace.
  5. Reinstall injectors via manufacturer's procedure.
      
• Remove barriers or covers from air filter(s)/air filter housing(s).
   
• Examine air filter(s) for condition, replace as necessary.
   
• Examine and tighten rubber air passage boots as necessary. If cracked or brittle, replace.
   
• Examine front fork tubes. Service/replace as necessary.
   
• Replace/flush fork oil and replace fork seals as per manufacturer's procedure.
   
• Remove barriers or covers from exhaust/muffler(s).
   
• BATTERY: IF BATTERY IS ATTACHED TO TRICKLE CHARGER AND NOT SEALED/GEL-TYPE:
   
  • Unplug trickle charger at wall, and disconnect from battery.
  • Examine battery case. If case is cracked, replace battery.
  • Examine battery cells. If any cell has white powder visible within it, or if any cell is at less than 25% volume, replace battery.
  • If battery passes both examinations, top off any battery cells requiring fluid with distilled water (and only distilled water!) to the full mark, and recap.
  • Reinstall battery into motorcycle.
  
   
• BATTERY: IF BATTERY IS ATTACHED TO TRICKLE CHARGER AND IS SEALED/GEL-TYPE:
   
  • Unplug trickle charger at wall, and disconnect from battery.
  • Examine battery case. If case is cracked, replace battery.
  • Reinstall battery into motorcycle. Know that battery may not be good even if hooked to charger for whole duration of storage.
  
   
• BATTERY: IF BATTERY STORED IN BAG ON SHELF AND IS NOT SEALED/GEL TYPE:
   
  • Examine battery case. If case is cracked, replace battery.
  • Examine battery cells. If any cell has white powder visible within it, or if any cell is at less than 25% volume, replace battery.
  • If battery passes both examinations, top off any battery cells requiring fluid with distilled water (and only distilled water!) to the full mark. Leave caps off.
  • Connect low power battery charger (2 Amp or less) or trickle charger (2 Amp or less). Charge for 12 hours, rechecking the fluids every couple hours and topping off with distilled water as necessary.
    DO NOT CONNECT BATTERY TO ANY CHARGER WITH OVER 2-AMP RATING, AS EXPLOSION MAY OCCUR. DO NOT USE A TRADITIONAL AUTOMOTIVE BATTERY CHARGER UNLESS IT HAS A 2-AMP OR LOWER TRICKLE CHARGER SETTING!
  • Cover top with a layer of wax paper to prevent any spillage while charging.
  • Disconnect battery charger after 12-24 hours. Check battery with volt meter after charging period. Voltage should be 12.8 volts or higher between the poles (13.8 ideal). If voltage is under 12.6 volts, replace battery.
  • Reinstall battery into motorcycle.
     
• BATTERY: IF BATTERY STORED IN BAG ON SHELF AND IS SEALED/GEL TYPE:
   
  • Examine battery case. If case is cracked, replace battery.
  • Connect low power battery charger (2 Amp or less) or trickle charger (2 Amp or less). Charge for 12 hours.
    DO NOT CONNECT BATTERY TO ANY CHARGER WITH OVER 2-AMP RATING, AS EXPLOSION MAY OCCUR. DO NOT USE A TRADITIONAL AUTOMOTIVE BATTERY CHARGER UNLESS IT HAS A 2-AMP OR LOWER TRICKLE CHARGER SETTING!
  • Disconnect battery charger after 12-24 hours. Check battery with volt meter after charging period. Voltage should be 12.8 volts or higher between the poles (13.8 ideal). If voltage is under 12.6 volts, replace battery.
  • Reinstall battery into motorcycle.
• Spray all keyholes (ignition, seat lock, helmet locks) with graphite lock spray.
• Lube control cables (throttle, choke, clutch, etc) with a light oil, and check for free operation. Replace if necessary.
• Reattach all handlebar-mounted devices (switches, levers, grips, throttle, etc).
• Adjust all control cables for correct operation (throttle, choke, clutch, etc).
   
• HAND-TURNING ENGINE, PRESTART PROCEEDURE:
   
  1. Turn key to on position and check bike is in neutral. Turn bike back to off and remove key.
  2. Verify spark plugs are out of engine.
  3. Using a flash light, look into each cylinder and verify that there is no debris inside, no standing oil, nor any build-up of rust. If debris is found, remove before proceeding.
     If standing oil is present, stop and remove all standing oil before proceeding.
     If rust is present, stop and seek professional help in rehoning your cylinders before proceeding.
  4. place a light spray (3-seconds or less) of WD-40 or other light spray oil into each engine cylinder.
  5. Cover spark plug openings with a clean shop rag or clean towel.
  6. Place bike into first or second gear. Do not turn on key!
  8. Turn rear wheel by hand to rotate engine. Listen for any unusually harsh sounds and feel for any heavy resistance to turning the rear wheel with the spark plugs out, which would indicate something is not right (like a seized water pump). If possible without straining and without using enough force to break anything, rotate rear wheel seven full revolutions. If no problems encountered, continue.
     If excess resistance encountered, or metal-breaking noises are heard, stop and seek professional help -- DO NOT PROCEED!
  
   
• INITAL ENGINE FIRE-UP PROCEEDURE:
   
  1. Ensure Hand-turning Engine Prestart Procedure (above) was performed within last 10 minutes. If not, repeat it first.
  2. Spray each cylinder with a light coating of starting fluid (WD40 will do in a pinch). Gap and install new plugs to manufacturer specifications.
  3. Install gas tank & fuel lines permanently if you have not done so yet.
  4. Obtain fresh, premium grade gasoline in the gas can. Place 1/3rd of a bottle of the Techron fuel-system cleaner into the motorcycle's tank and then fill up the tank to full with the fresh gasoline.
  5. Ensure that the motorcycle has adequate ventilation for the exhaust fumes before proceeding. Roll the bike outdoors if necessary!
  6. Set choke to full on.
  7. Set gas selector switch to prime, twist throttle to full-on for 10 seconds, then back off and wait 2 minutes. Set selector back to normal.
  8. Examine engine, carbs, fuel petcock and surrounding area for any fuel leaks. Address/repair leaks before proceeding.
  9. Remove stopper from gas over-flow/drain hose, if present, and drain. Reinstall cap.
  10. Spray some starting fluid into air filter.
  11. Attempt to start bike as normal. Do not rev and do not hold throttle open. Do not run starter for more than 6 seconds in row; allow to cool 60 seconds before reattempting. You may spray additional starting fluid onto the air filter intake at this time to help the bike. Expect it to take 3 to 10 attempts before engine will come to life under it's own power. Do not be alarmed if you get a back fire or two to start -- it means ease off the starting spray and/or reduce choke setting (bike is getting too much fuel before it sparks). If the battery dies, recharge it, and/or jump it from a known good battery with the same voltage (some bikes with advanced electrical systems, [i.e. - Ducati 999, etc] should never be jumped from a car or truck battery).
  12. Once started, do not rev. Ease off choke in one to two minutes, as soon as bike will run consistently without it.
      NOTE: engine, exhaust and other parts that heat up may smoke or smolder, giving off fumes as engine heats up. This means that you did not get all the grease, petroleum jelly or long term storage oils off the exterior surfaces. Try not to breathe these fumes, and rewash the parts in question after initial warm-up to remove any residual. It will be harder to get it off once it's been heated (since it will thicken as a result), but much of it will burn off in the process as well.
  
   
• WARM UP:
   
  IF WATER-COOLED:
   
  1. Run in neutral as long as it takes for the coolant display to come up to minimum operating temperature plus an additional 15 minutes. Shut off immediately if overheating occurs and go to step 3.
      
  2. When complete, shut off as usual;
      
  3. Drain coolant flush water from bike at this time. Rinse coolant passages thoroughly with water, then drain. Refill with 50% coolant plus 50% distilled water, or whatever mixture rate recommended by your motorcycle manufacturer. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!
      
  4. Your bike is now ready for a test drive... Do a traditional pre-ride check as should be your habit. Drive carefully for the first few miles to ensure brakes, clutch and everything else is working as expected!
      
  5. When you have cycled through that first tank of post-storage gasoline & fuel system cleaner mix, do another oil change with whatever motorcycle oil you prefer (synthetic, dino, etc). At this time also drain and refill your cooling system again as per instructions above.
      
  
  IF OIL-COOLED OR AIR-COOLED:
   
  1. If oil-cooled or air-cooled, allow to run for a period of fifteen minutes in neutral;
      
  2. Your bike is now ready for a test drive... Do a traditional pre-ride check as should be your habit. Drive carefully for the first few miles to ensure brakes, clutch and everything else is working as expected!
      
  3. When you have cycled through that first tank of post-storage gasoline & fuel system cleaner mix, do another oil change with whatever motorcycle oil you prefer (synthetic, dino, etc).